Monday, November 17, 2008

Time flies when you are having fun

Whew, what a whirlwind the last week has been!

In the space of the last seven days, we have been to three different cities - Kazimierz Dolny, Sandomierz and Krakow. Each has imprinted its memories.

Kazimierz Dolny is a bit like coming home. It is a lovely little city situated on the banks of the Vistula River. It has some castle ruins, a town square with a famous well, and is the place where my parents got married. It's like coming home because it is the place to take family that is visiting from out of town, or in this case out of country. We laugh everytime we get taken there, because it is the standard tourist stop.

Nonetheless, it was dear to see it again, and this time, we toured a 16th century convent, where my mother bought herbs for everything from hemorrhoids to hypertension. We also met this monk who was desperately lonely and a lovely old man. I wanted to buy a rosary for E and L there and he would not take any money for it, and he blessed both of them. It was heartwarming. He told us a bit of the story of the convent, and we got the impression that if we stayed longer, he would have gladly spent more time with us.

The day we went to Kazimierz Dolny, it was a national holiday. Apparently, it's the place to be to show off your vehicle and your family. To walk the town square and to have a beer. Everybody and their uncle was there. I did not mind so much, as it was a sunny day. The throngs of people were not really interested in the same spots that we were going to, so that made things all right.


Onto the next city. On the 12th, we set out for Krakow, by way of Sandomierz. The highlight of Sandomierz was a 13th century church. But first we got stalked by a guide who popped out of her car when she spotted us and offered to take us through another church. This one was from the 16th century. A young'un. She had crazy hair and spoke with the speed of a machine gun. Lovely lady. Don't remember a word she said. She steered us toward the 13th century church, where, as it happened, my camera battery decided to bid adieu. Hence, so few pictures of St. Jakub's church were captured. We did find a statue of St. Czeslaw there - my father's namesake.

We arrived in Krakow in the late afternoon and set out for the city centre. This is a square again, with a famous basilica and stores in the middle of the square, called sukiennice. In medieval times, cloth was traded there, hence the name. The buildings were beautifully lit up at night, and I'm glad that I started snapping. Some of the shots worked out nicely.

Let me tell you, I wish I was in Krakow with my sister. It has such a spirit, so much life. It's a city for young people. So many hostels, so many clubs, so many things to do and see. I have a photo of a bar advertising 'dancing on tables' on Thursdays. You had to be there. I think they were dead serious.

We toured the castle and churches that would make you cry. We were bone tired at the end of the next day, full of walking and touring. At one point my eyes hurt from looking at things. So much history, so much tradition and such richness of spirit. It was wonderful. I am very grateful that I got to experience this at this point in my life, when I can appreciate it.

At the end of the day of touring, we wandered into the old Jewish quarter of town. We were hungry and hurting. None of the restaurants seemed to fit. How can you eat Italian or Portuguese food in the old Jewish quarter? I didn't think so either. We finally wandered into a little bar called 'alchemia' or 'alchemy.' This is funny because I was older than the crowd in the bar by about ten years. It was dark and smoky and oozing with coolness. You can imagine how well my mother, aunt and uncle fit in. The best part was that the bar did not serve food! Yes, liquor and beer only. And I thought you had to serve food to prevent people from getting sloshed! We had a beer on an empty stomach, and then stumbled out to find food. We found a little place that did not serve kosher food, but the food was yummy. Borsch with uszka, or mushroom pierogies.

So, the week was jam-packed with memories and feasts for the eyes. A good week indeed.

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